The Classic Prints in Transition for Vintage Fashion
The revolving nature of fashion brings back trends in different ways, drawing inspiration from the past and imbuing them with a modern touch. To some extent, the cyclical nature of fashion can be seen as a retrospective and reinterpretation of history.
Starting from the "La Belle Époque" (Beautiful Era) in the early 20th century, France experienced socio-economic prosperity and cultural flourishing. Fashion became an integral part of social life, with elegant and delicate lace and silk, as well as bell-shaped skirts, becoming prevalent. Prints on clothing also became a reflection of the era, representing different fashion styles.
Black and white newspaper print
The fashion industry has always had a fascination with vintage styles, and Newspaper Print is one highly anticipated element. Featuring a combination of printed text and images, presented in black and white with typical news headlines and article layouts, it exudes the charm of the past and has become a significant factor in the incorporation of Newspaper Prints into fashion.
Whether it's Emily Ratajkowski wearing a vintage Jean Paul Gaultier Newspaper Print dress at New York Fashion Week, or Kim Kardashian styling a classic Dior Newspaper Print saddlebag with a matching dress for an event, the elements of Newspaper Prints remain timeless in today's fashion trends.
However, the use of newspaper print dates back as early as 1935 when designer Elsa Schiaparelli was inspired by Danish fisherwomen wearing hats made from newspapers during her vacation in Copenhagen. She transformed news clippings about herself into printed shirts and accessories. These designs not only showcase captivating qualities but also provide a unique response to news, media, and contemporary culture.
The series that made newspaper print shine is undoubtedly the Dior Fall/Winter 2000 collection by John Galliano, where he extensively incorporated newspaper print elements, featuring a newspaper specifically created for the fashion show called "Christian Dior Daily."
However, the presentation of this collection also sparked controversy. The inspiration for this series came from Galliano encountering numerous homeless people during a walk along the Seine River, and he used their collected newspapers as inspiration. At the same time, it paid homage to the wandering parties of the 1920s, where the wealthy would dress as the poor for entertainment. This design concept raised questions and criticism from critics and welfare advocates.
Subsequently, John Galliano's eponymous brand frequently utilized newspaper print elements in its 2001 Spring/Summer, 2004 Autumn/Winter, 2005 Spring/Summer, and 2005 Autumn/Winter collections, gradually making it a signature characteristic of the brand.
Blooming Flowers
Out of love for nature and tracing roots, floral prints are one of the most widely used decorative patterns in vintage fashion. They originated from designs from the early to mid-20th century and have been interpreted on clothing through embroidery, knitting, printing, weaving, and other forms.
Since the 1920s, floral prints began to be widely applied in clothing design. Floral prints in the 1930s became more feminized, adorning luxurious dresses with layered floral patterns, printed on glamorous ball gowns, pleats, and ruffled edges.
As war broke out, people started seeking more practical and durable clothing, with cotton and linen fabrics being frequently used. The trend of using exotic tropical-inspired floral decorations gradually emerged.
In Balmain's 1958 "Jolie Madame" collection, rose appliqués and prints were extensively used. Valentino, Prada, and Balenciaga have also drawn inspiration from flowers, presenting vibrant fashion collections.
In modern fashion, the interpretation of plants is not limited to mere patterns on garments. More daring creativity is being implemented. In Noir Kei Ninomiya's Spring/Summer 2020 collection, plants become part of the body, as if moss is enveloping the entire body, creating dresses, hats, and more.
The Dazzling World of Punk Hippie
With the rise of hip-hop culture, punk styles, and graffiti art, fashion underwent a revolution, giving birth to bolder and freer fashion styles. With the emergence of the punk movement, a revolutionary era in fashion arrived, where more audacious and liberated fashions emerged. The use of slogan prints on clothing became not only a way for individuals to showcase their personalities but also a means of venting emotions and expressing oneself.
Led by Vivienne Westwood in the 1970s, the slogans imprinted on garments were boldly brought into the fashion world, conveying her eccentric and rebellious attitude towards life. The clothing featuring provocative slogans led to the revival of punk and slogan tees becoming a common T-shirt style, remaining popular until the 1980s.
Speaking of slogan tees, when traveling to various cities, one can hardly miss the local cultural shirts. In the summer of 1974, John Winston Lennon wore a sleeveless shirt with "NEW YORK CITY" written on it on the rooftop of his New York residence, captured in one of his most famous portraits by his photographer friend Bob Gruen. The concept of city cultural shirts began to flourish from that point onward.
In the 1980s, oversized T-shirts with bold black phrases, such as "CHOOSE LIFE," introduced by Katharine Hamnett, received attention and interpretation from popular bands, as this simplistic and blunt aesthetics presented a unique power on stage.
In contemporary fashion, whether it's the "WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINISTS" released by Dior, the clothing featuring "THE FUTURE IS FEMALE" presented by Prabal Gurung, or the "GIRLS CAN DO ANYTHING" slogan introduced by Zadig & Voltaire, they reflect and express the current realities of specific eras and societies.
Although today's trends are ever-changing, vintage fashion and elements continue to endure, continuously inspiring our creativity and igniting the spark of inspiration.
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FASHION HIGHLIGHT
cne Studios collaborates with Kylie Jenner to present a new denim advertising
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Kendall Jenner stars in the Winter 2023 advertising campaign for STELLA McCARTNEY
he new campaign takes place against the backdrop of the Camargue salt marshes in France and is captured by photographer Harley Weir. Kendall embodies the role of an equestrian, riding alongside the famous white Camargue horses. The theme "Horse Power" runs through the entire design process and ad campaign of the Winter 2023 collection
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BOTTEGA VENETA releases a new advertising campaign for the 2023 Winter collection.
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AMI launches a new collaborative collection with a sports theme this autumn.
Taking rugby as the creative inspiration, the collection celebrates the 2023 Rugby
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Alexander McQueen introduces the new Seal handbag.
The Seal logo, with its overlapping design, has become a symbol of the brand's exploration and subversion of silhouettes. Inspired by the Tudor rose and nature, the compact and sleek logo perfectly combines a soft texture with patchwork design, highlighting the bold personality of the leather-filled bag. Worn by many celebrities, the bag symbolizes their unique and elegant fashion styles.
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Acne Studios collaborates with Kylie Jenner to present a new denim advertising campaign for Fall/Winter 2023.
Photographed by Dutch visual artist and photographer Carlijn Jacobs, the campaign was shot in Los Angeles. Kylie Jenner embraces a minimalist and natural image in this campaign, showcasing Acne Studios' new pieces for their Fall/Winter 2023 denim collection, featuring oversized silhouettes and distressed washes.